01 · Quick answer
22K gold
- 91.6% pure gold — BIS stamp: 916
- Deep rich yellow tone, traditional Indian look
- Softer — suited to hand-finished and jadau work
- Higher intrinsic gold value per gram
18K gold
- 75% pure gold — BIS stamp: 750
- Harder alloy — available in yellow, white, and rose
- Required for diamond prong settings
- Better scratch resistance for daily wear
02 · What karat actually means
“Karat” (abbreviated K or kt) measures the proportion of pure gold in an alloy, expressed as parts out of 24. Pure gold is 24K — but 24K is too soft for most jewellery because it bends and scratches immediately under everyday handling. Adding other metals (silver, copper, palladium, zinc) increases hardness while reducing the pure gold fraction.
| Karat | BIS hallmark stamp | Gold purity | Common use in India |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24K | 999 | 99.9% | Gold coins, bars — not wearable jewellery |
| 22K | 916 | 91.6% | Bridal gold, traditional jewellery, heirlooms |
| 18K | 750 | 75.0% | Diamond jewellery, white gold, rose gold, daily wear |
| 14K | 585 | 58.5% | Fashion jewellery, export pieces — less common in India |
The alloys added to gold are not arbitrary. For 22K yellow gold, small amounts of silver and copper are added — preserving the warm yellow tone while adding enough hardness for detailed hand-finishing. For 18K white gold, palladium or nickel is added to shift the colour, and then rhodium-plating is applied for the bright white finish. For 18K rose gold, a higher copper ratio creates the characteristic warm pink tone.
For a detailed walkthrough of how to read and verify a BIS hallmark stamp on a piece you own or are considering buying, see our guide on how to read a BIS hallmark.
03 · When to choose 22K
22K is the dominant karat for jewellery in Gujarat and across most of India — and for good reason. The high gold content means the piece carries more intrinsic value per gram, the colour is the deep warm yellow that pairs with Indian textiles and traditional design vocabularies, and the softness that comes with high purity actually helps the hand-finishing techniques that define Indian craftsmanship.
- Bridal and heirloom pieces. Any piece intended to be passed down — mangalsutra, the main necklace set, kadas — should be 22K. Higher purity means higher intrinsic gold value that holds across generations regardless of design fashion changes.
- Jadau and meenakari work. These traditional techniques require the softer 22K alloy — the karigars hammer uncut (polki) diamonds and precious stones directly into the gold foil setting, which requires a metal that yields to hand-pressure without cracking. 18K is too hard for authentic jadau.
- Gujarati mangalsutra and thushi styles. The traditional Gujarati double black-bead mangalsutra with flat locket, and the thushi necklace form from Maharashtra and south Gujarat, are both made in 22K. The designs predate 18K adoption in Indian markets and the aesthetic is inseparable from 22K yellow gold.
- Higher resale gold value. When you sell or exchange a 22K piece, you get credit for 91.6% of the gross weight at the current gold rate. The same gross-weight piece in 18K gives you credit for 75%. For pieces bought primarily as long-term gold stores, 22K is the rational choice.
04 · When to choose 18K
18K is not a compromise — it is the correct specification for specific types of jewellery. The harder alloy protects diamonds and coloured stones in prong and channel settings far better than 22K can; white gold and rose gold are unavailable at 22K by nature; and the improved scratch resistance makes 18K yellow gold a more practical choice for pieces worn every day.
- Diamond settings. Prong settings and pavé settings require a harder metal to hold the stone securely over years of wear. In 22K, prongs bend more easily, increasing the risk of stone loss. Every credible diamond jeweller — including us — sets diamonds in 18K or lower, never 22K.
- Contemporary daily-wear pieces.A ring worn daily, a bracelet that sees desk work, a chain that catches on clothing — these benefit from 18K's better scratch resistance. The reduced gold content means lower raw-material cost, but the design and making charges often compensate for this in the final price.
- White gold and rose gold. Both are exclusively 18K (or 14K) — there is no 22K white gold or rose gold. If the colour of the metal is central to your design choice, 18K is not optional, it is the only option.
- Travel and occasion pieces. Lighter contemporary 18K pieces are increasingly popular for international travel — they are less visually heavy, hold up better in varied conditions, and the lower gold content reduces the loss if a piece is misplaced. Many buyers keep one or two 18K pieces specifically for travel.
05 · Price difference and resale
The raw material cost of a 22K piece is higher than an identical-weight 18K piece because it contains more gold per gram. But identical weight is rare in practice — 18K pieces often have heavier stone-setting work and higher making charges because the techniques used (pavé, micro-set diamond work) are labour-intensive. The actual price-per-piece comparison depends heavily on the design.
Raw material cost
At any given gold rate, a gram of 22K metal costs about 22% more in gold content than a gram of 18K metal (91.6% vs 75% pure). So a plain 10g chain in 22K will have a higher material cost than the same 10g chain in 18K. The jeweller's gold rate applies the karat-adjusted price — you pay for what is actually there.
Making charges
18K pieces with significant diamond work often carry higher making charges than plain 22K pieces. Prong-setting 30 diamonds in a ring is more labour-intensive than casting a plain gold ring. The making-charge gap between the karats narrows or reverses once stone-setting labour is factored in. Always ask for the making charge separately from the gold-value line on your bill.
Resale and exchange value
When you exchange or sell a piece, you receive the value of the net gold content at the current gold rate for that karat — not the original purchase price and not the design premium. A 22K piece gives you 916 parts per thousand of its weight in gold credit; an 18K piece gives you 750. Making charges are not returned on resale. This is standard practice across India: buy gold for the metal, not the making.
For a full breakdown of how jewellery bills should be structured and where to spot hidden markup, read our guide on gold making charges, explained.
Not sure which karat is right for your piece?
At our Mavdi Main Road showroom, we show you both karats side by side so you can see the colour and weight difference in person before deciding. Or browse our full collection filtered by metal.